Showing posts with label steering rack. Show all posts
Showing posts with label steering rack. Show all posts

GM Puts Brakes on Facebook Advertising

Thursday, May 17, 2012

It’s never a good thing when your steering rack or your steering gear box bites the dust, but try having the country’s third largest advertiser pull out two days prior to your company going public.  That is exactly what happened to Facebook, when General Motors decided to decrease its Facebook advertising budget from $10 million to $0.  Now, I am not that good at math, but I believe $0 means nothing.

GM still plans on being active on Facebook.  They will update their Facebook page, communicate with fans, and upload videos and photos.  However they will not pay for pay per click advertising. GM says that the return on investment has been insufficient.   They also feel that a car is not a type of purchase someone will make with just one click of a mouse.   GM feels the Facebook adverts are more for spontaneous shopping.

GM Dislikes Facebook
GM communicated with their Facebook Fans by posting this message on their wall yesterday
Just wanted to let our millions of Facebook fans know, we're still here, and we 'like' you back! We may not be advertising on Facebook at the moment but we'll still be talking with you all daily. If anything, we will be providing more content across our many GM Facebook pages - including Chevrolet, Buick, GMC and Cadillac - to keep the dialogue going.”

Some investors are now waiting to see what other big companies will also leave Facebook.  Though GM’s competitor Ford Motor Company says it is going to invest even more in its Facebook advertising.  Time will tell.

Basic Oil Change

Friday, April 20, 2012

Changing your own motor oil is the most basic DIY maintenance of your vehicle. It has to be done often enough that it really helps to know how to change your own oil. It's not complicated like a steering rack or AC Compressor install, but it is handy. Below is a short guide on what you need and how to perform a simple oil change in your vehicle.

 You’ll need the following tools and items: A box end or socket wrench to remove the drain plug, an oil filter wrench (if it’s on really tight or doesn’t have grips on the end), an oil drain pan, a funnel, a jack and jack stands, and a long piece of cardboard or canvas to avoid any sudden spills.

Of course, you’ll also need fresh oil and a new oil filter.

Before going out and buying the needed supplies, make sure to check your owner’s manual for the right kind of oil for your vehicle and the amount you’ll need. Oil is typically sold in quarts, so if your car needs 5.7 quarts buy 6 quarts of oil at the store. Then you need to make sure you buy the right viscosity – if your car lists 5W-30, buy 5W-30 even if another viscosity is cheaper or on sale. Always put in the viscosity your owner’s manual suggests.

As far as whether to buy conventional or synthetic, it’s largely up to you – unless your owner’s manual specifies synthetic or you have a turbocharged or supercharged engine, in which case you should also buy synthetic.

Once you’ve gathered everything, park your car on a level surface and jack it up, placing jack stands on either side of the frame. Some newer cars have undercovers, so you may need to remove this to access the drain plug and oil filter. It’s best to change the oil when the engine is slightly warm, but never when it’s hot – all the oil hasn’t had a chance to drain into the oil pan and you could get burned.

Locate the drain plug and oil filer. Most cars have bottom-mount, screw on filters. Locate the drain plug, and place your open oil pan underneath where the drain plug will drain. Some people say removing your oil reservoir cap in your engine bay will help the oil drain out faster and smoother. While this may not necessarily be the case, it will help you remember to put fresh oil in your car before driving off. 

The drain plug is often at an angle – try to position the oil pan where the oil will come out.  Take your socket wrench and loosen the drain plug slowly. Once it seems pretty loose, carefully unscrew and remove it by hand, allowing the oil to spill out onto the oil pan. 

Wait for all of the oil to drain out of the vehicle, and then replace the oil drain plug. Make sure it is clean and free of debris, and that the washer is clean and intact, before putting it back on. Make sure to screw it back on tightly with a hand wrench so you can’t tighten it anymore, but don’t use a socket wrench or anything that would strip it out.

 Then move your oil pan underneath your oil filer. Get out your oil filter wrench and twist off the oil filter. Turn the filter upside down towards the side of your oil pan and let it drain as your car drains the oil out of the oil filter socket. Once it’s finished draining, use rags to clean as much of the oil away as possible, paying special attention to the filter sealing surface. Then open a quart of fresh oil and put a dab of it on the gasket of your new oil filter, then screw the new oil filter in the proper socket. Tighten the oil filter as much as you possibly can by hand – you shouldn’t need a filter wrench unless your hands are too greasy to tighten it properly.
After you confirm that the oil drain bolt and oil filter are properly in place and tightened, it’s time to add fresh oil. Place the funnel into your oil reservoir and start adding oil. Ad about a half of a quart to a full quart less than is recommended by your engine. 

Replace the oil reservoir cap and run the engine for 30 seconds or so to circulate the new oil. Look underneath your car and make sure there are no leaks. Then check the oil level in your car and make sure it falls within the right parameters – if it doesn’t, add a bit more oil to top it off.
Once you’ve made sure everything looks good, remove the jack stands and lower your car.  The only thing left to do now is properly dispose of your old oil. Most auto parts stores that sell oil have a waste oil bin you can dump your old oil in for no charge.

Then you’re done! Once you’ve done this a few times, it becomes a breeze. Now you don’t have to pay someone else to do a simple job, and you can make sure it’s done right every time.

What is Drive by Wire

Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Cars advance as quickly as cell phones nowadays, the moment you buy the newest latest and greatest…it is outdated. The technology in cars is becoming staggering when compared to cars of 10 years ago. Cars like the Toyota Prius use electric power steering rack units but will soon use a drive by wire system. The electric rack and pinion is actually a manual rack with an electric assist that eliminates the need for the power steering pump. This may seem strange as the electric draw on the motor would be huge but the gains are more impressive.

The power steering pump is a belt driven pump which means that it creates a parasitic draw on the motor at all times. By removing this draw the electric and gas motors in an electric or gas car can be minimized. This means that the engine can perform more efficiently and thus deliver better mileage from the power supply.

Drive by wire is also a term that can apply to a system that uses no physical connection at all from the steering wheel to the rack. This system uses electrical connections to communicate the input from the driver. This system is not only applied to the steering but also the throttle and soon the brakes as well. While this system shows efficiency over the actual mechanical connection it does show some concerns. The system is powered by an electric current but what happens when the battery goes dead? Will the car lose all control and not be able to steer, stop or go?

These are all questions that the auto industry is trying to cover with safety and back-up systems. Drive by wire will be showing up more and more in the auto industry, so it is something we will all have to get used to. Just like any other new technology there will be excitement and failures in the field but it will work out in the end, just look at Blu Ray. Blu Ray hit the market with so many issues that no one thought it would ever work but now it is the way of the future. Drive by wire will be the same as the technology gets better the cars will get more and more efficient. 

Tight Steering After a Rack Install

Friday, October 14, 2011
Recently the vehicle you drive had a leaking steering rack and it is leaving puddles everywhere you go. You think to your self "great! how much is this gonna cost?" so you find the power rack or power gearbox that you need online for a good price. The install goes well and the mechanic stands behind his work but the car is really hard to turn.  This must mean the part is bad...it is the only new part to the car and the old one turned fine.

After all this time and money the mechanic is telling you that the rack you ordered is bad and he will not warranty the labor cost. So now it is time call and scream at the company who sold the rack. But hold on...is there really issue tor more did the new rack that has exposed a preexisting issue. Many times an old power steering rack is loose and very easy to move, this means very little force is needed from the power steering pump. When the old worn out pump is now coupled with the new rack means that it may not make enough pressure to turn the rack. A tight rack can seem like a binding rack but it will never bind in both directions. An easy way to check for a failing pump is to rev up the motor and see if the car turns easier...if it does, you have a bad pump.

Mechanics don't care about diagnosing the issue most of the time if you bring your own parts but they are happy to charge labor again and again. Be sure that the company who is installing the part knows what they are doing and that they are good people. Every company can smile at you and act like a friend...walk onto a used car lot and you will have a new best friend till you buy a car but its all an act. Make sure the repairs to the steering system are done by a trust worthy company that can determine real issues for you.
 

Car Vehicle Parts Copyright © 2011-2012 | Powered by Blogger