Basic Oil Change

Changing your own motor oil is the most basic DIY maintenance of your vehicle. It has to be done often enough that it really helps to know how to change your own oil. It's not complicated like a steering rack or AC Compressor install, but it is handy. Below is a short guide on what you need and how to perform a simple oil change in your vehicle.

 You’ll need the following tools and items: A box end or socket wrench to remove the drain plug, an oil filter wrench (if it’s on really tight or doesn’t have grips on the end), an oil drain pan, a funnel, a jack and jack stands, and a long piece of cardboard or canvas to avoid any sudden spills.

Of course, you’ll also need fresh oil and a new oil filter.

Before going out and buying the needed supplies, make sure to check your owner’s manual for the right kind of oil for your vehicle and the amount you’ll need. Oil is typically sold in quarts, so if your car needs 5.7 quarts buy 6 quarts of oil at the store. Then you need to make sure you buy the right viscosity – if your car lists 5W-30, buy 5W-30 even if another viscosity is cheaper or on sale. Always put in the viscosity your owner’s manual suggests.

As far as whether to buy conventional or synthetic, it’s largely up to you – unless your owner’s manual specifies synthetic or you have a turbocharged or supercharged engine, in which case you should also buy synthetic.

Once you’ve gathered everything, park your car on a level surface and jack it up, placing jack stands on either side of the frame. Some newer cars have undercovers, so you may need to remove this to access the drain plug and oil filter. It’s best to change the oil when the engine is slightly warm, but never when it’s hot – all the oil hasn’t had a chance to drain into the oil pan and you could get burned.

Locate the drain plug and oil filer. Most cars have bottom-mount, screw on filters. Locate the drain plug, and place your open oil pan underneath where the drain plug will drain. Some people say removing your oil reservoir cap in your engine bay will help the oil drain out faster and smoother. While this may not necessarily be the case, it will help you remember to put fresh oil in your car before driving off. 

The drain plug is often at an angle – try to position the oil pan where the oil will come out.  Take your socket wrench and loosen the drain plug slowly. Once it seems pretty loose, carefully unscrew and remove it by hand, allowing the oil to spill out onto the oil pan. 

Wait for all of the oil to drain out of the vehicle, and then replace the oil drain plug. Make sure it is clean and free of debris, and that the washer is clean and intact, before putting it back on. Make sure to screw it back on tightly with a hand wrench so you can’t tighten it anymore, but don’t use a socket wrench or anything that would strip it out.

 Then move your oil pan underneath your oil filer. Get out your oil filter wrench and twist off the oil filter. Turn the filter upside down towards the side of your oil pan and let it drain as your car drains the oil out of the oil filter socket. Once it’s finished draining, use rags to clean as much of the oil away as possible, paying special attention to the filter sealing surface. Then open a quart of fresh oil and put a dab of it on the gasket of your new oil filter, then screw the new oil filter in the proper socket. Tighten the oil filter as much as you possibly can by hand – you shouldn’t need a filter wrench unless your hands are too greasy to tighten it properly.

After you confirm that the oil drain bolt and oil filter are properly in place and tightened, it’s time to add fresh oil. Place the funnel into your oil reservoir and start adding oil. Ad about a half of a quart to a full quart less than is recommended by your engine. 

Replace the oil reservoir cap and run the engine for 30 seconds or so to circulate the new oil. Look underneath your car and make sure there are no leaks. Then check the oil level in your car and make sure it falls within the right parameters – if it doesn’t, add a bit more oil to top it off.

Once you’ve made sure everything looks good, remove the jack stands and lower your car.  The only thing left to do now is properly dispose of your old oil. Most auto parts stores that sell oil have a waste oil bin you can dump your old oil in for no charge.

Then you’re done! Once you’ve done this a few times, it becomes a breeze. Now you don’t have to pay someone else to do a simple job, and you can make sure it’s done right every time.

DIY Vehicle Fluid Checks

There are many different fluids in your car that keep it running smoothly and accurately. The most commonly known are of course the engine oil and radiator fluid, but there are still other fluids that need to be properly checked and maintained to ensure the proper functioning and longevity of your vehicle. Many people don't know that there is oil in your AC Compressor and A / C Compressor - though you do not need to check it as part of regular vehicle maintenance.

 Your owner’s manual can help you locate all of the dipsticks for checking fluids in your car, the necessary fluid changes to keep your warranty, and the proper levels of fluid that should be in your car. Keep your owner’s manual handy for reference if you’re having trouble locating one of the fluid dipsticks or reservoirs in your vehicle.

First step is to park your car on a flat, level surface and set the emergency brake. Then, make sure you have a clean paper towel or shop towel handy – white ones are easier to use as they show the color of the fluids better. Open the hood, and use the stand to keep it open.  

I think it’s easier to check your transmission fluid first, as the car has to be warmed up and running in order to check it properly. After your car is warmed up, leave it in park with the emergency brake on, but running. Locate the transmission fluid dipstick, hook your finger in the loop (and release any clips, if applicable) and pull it out completely. Wipe it off with a clean rag, put it back into its opening, and push it all the way down until it stops. Remove it completely and look at the fluid on the dipstick. There will be indicators on the dipstick if the fluid is within the proper parameters. Wipe this fluid off on your clean, white paper towel or shop towel – it should be a clear, reddish color. If the transmission fluid is very grey or black, it hasn’t been changed in a long time. You’ll need to schedule a mechanic to drop the pan and change your transmission fluid.

The next and most important fluid to check is your engine oil. Your car needs to be cool in order to properly measure engine oil, so turn off the car and let it sit for awhile; the car needs time for all the oil in your car to drain down into the oil pan. There will be an oil dipstick – hook your finger in the loop of the dipstick and pull it all the way out. Use a clean rag and wipe it clean, then place it back into its opening and push it all the way down until it stops. Take it out again, this time looking carefully at the level of oil on the dipstick.

The dipstick has markings indicating an acceptable oil level range –if the level is down by the indicator for “low,” you need to add more oil. If the oil is around the opposite end by “full” or within the properly marked acceptable range, you’re fine.

Take the oil dipstick and wipe it on your clean, white paper towel or shop towel. Pay close attention to the color of the oil. Clean engine oil is clear, and golden. Dirty engine oil is dark brown or black.  Aside from engine oil color, your owner’s manual should indicate how many miles you should go between oil changes – it’s best to heed this advice and change the oil at the proper mileage, and not when it looks particularly dirty.

 The rest of the fluids can be checked by looking at their respective reservoirs. Most of these fluid reservoirs are plastic, and you can see the fluid level through the plastic itself. On the plastic housing there will be fluid indicator lines, much like the dipstick, that read low or full. If you are having trouble seeing the fluid line on the reservoir, jiggle it a little so you can see it more clearly.

Find the brake fluid reservoir using your owner’s manual. Look at the fluid level in the reservoir and see if it falls within the indicator limits on the reservoir itself. Your car should not consume brake fluid – therefore it should not be low. If it is low, it means you have a leak somewhere along your brake lines. Have your car checked by a licensed mechanic to see what is going on.

Next find your power steering fluid reservoir. Look at the fluid level, and see if it falls within the lines indicated on the reservoir, same as the brake fluid. With power steering fluid there may be two sets of indicator lines – one for a hot engine, and one for cold. Make sure to read the level of your car’s current state.

Brake Fluid Reservoir

Now check the car’s coolant. VERY IMPORTANT – make sure the engine is completely cool before checking the coolant. Opening the coolant reservoir when the engine is hot can cause searing hot coolant to come spraying out, burning you. You do not want this to happen. Make sure the engine is cool before continuing. The coolant will most likely be in a reservoir up front, by the radiator. Check the fluid and the indicator lines to make sure you have enough coolant. If not, you’ll need to top it off.

Cars are designed to operate with antifreeze as coolant, not water. Antifreeze is a mixture that has a lower freezing and boiling point than water so it can handle more extreme weather conditions. Many people will tell you to just top off your coolant with water – it is much better to heed the advice of your owner’s manual and buy the correct fluid for your vehicle. Keeping your engine properly cool is essential. Read the label on the antifreeze you buy – some require to be mixed half and half with water, some go directly in.

Lastly, check your windshield washer fluid. It won’t affect the performance of your car, and there are no indicator levels for it, but it is nice to have fluid in the reservoir so you can clean your windshield while driving. Washer fluid that is formulated to clean off bugs and road grime is cheap and works significantly better than water, but you can use water as well. If winter is coming, make sure you use a washer fluid that has a lower freezing point than water – it will be indicated on the washer fluid bottle itself.

Hope this guide helps you maintain your vehicle and address any problems you might be having early.

Time for an Oil Change?

If your oil changes are costing close to $100 chances are your engine requires synthetic oil. The metal components of your vehicle (such as steering racks and steering gearboxes) need oil to stay lubricated, but there is more than one type of oil available. Most vehicles take conventional or natural oils which are derived directly from crude oil. This oil has many natural properties which protect and lubricate the engine over long periods of time.

A downside to natural oil is that it contains many impurities such as sulfur which can slow down the flow of oil throughout the engine. Over time contaminants can also build up and create deposits or wax within the engine.  With this in mind, synthetic oils were developed with specific chemical properties in order to create a more consistent substance. While natural oils can break down quickly at extremely high temperatures, synthetic oils are made to withstand this heat. There are even synthetic oil blends developed for specific purposes such as lubricating a high-performance or high-mileage vehicle. Despite its higher cost, synthetic oil offers the benefits of improved lubrication, better stability, reduced oil breakdown and fewer deposits.

However, just because synthetic oils offer these advantages does not mean that you need to switch up the type of oil at your next oil change. In most cases conventional oil does the job just fine; synthetic oil is only required for specific vehicles. If you are thinking of switching up your oil be sure to check with your manufacturer before-hand for vehicle-specific recommendations.